D-DAY REVISITED

3 day tour of the NORMANDY BEACHES and principle sights, concentrating on the events of June 6/7 1944.

ITINERARY [and historical background]

‘Believe me, Lang, the first 24 hours of the invasion will be decisive …for the Allies, as well as for Germany, it will be the longest day.’ FM Rommel to his ADC, April 1944 ‘Soldiers, Sailors and Airman of the Allied Expeditionary Force! You are about to embark upon the Great Crusade… The eyes of the world are upon you.’ Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, June 5, 1944

Depart: PORTSMOUTH on first Fast Craft. Arrive: CHERBOURG

DAY 1: AMERICAN SECTOR

Along the N13, left on the D42 drive to QUINEVILLE, on the western edge of the 6 June objective line. It was here in Dec. 1943 that Free French Commandos landed and discovered the main German anti-tank obstacle (‘Element C’). This intelligence proved crucial.

Visit Blockhouse and MUSEUM showing life under the Occupation. The village was taken on 14 June. It lies on the edge of high ground – the Montebourg- Quineville ridge – which the Germans defended stoutly as it protected CHERBOURG.

Via the D14, pass the Perrette 365th Fighter Group Memorial (they used a landing strip here from 28 June to 15 Aug.) to ST. MARCOUF BATTERIE, CRISBECQ, which has fine views of UTAH BEACH from the top. This powerful naval battery, garrisoned by 300 men, held out until Jun 12, despite massive air and sea bombardment.

Commandos, Juno Beach, 6/6/44

Thence to BATTERIE D’AZEVILLE, on the D269, a battery impregnable to artillery fire or from direct assault. On June 9, 2 companies of 1st Batt. 22nd Inf., US 4th Div., found an unguarded approach from the west and it was taken single-handedly by Pvt. Ralph Riley (awarded Silver Star) with a flame thrower.

Thence to ST. MERE EGLISE – the first town in France to be liberated – where the US 82nd AB DIV. (‘All American’) parachuted shortly after 0130 on Tuesday, 6 June. See CHURCH where Pfc. John Steele (505th PIR) famously hung by his ‘chute from a flying buttress, pretending to be dead to avoid being shot at. See US AIRBORNE MUSEUM which contains a C47 aircraft. On to the MERDERET RIVER CAUSEWAY and LA FIERE BRIDGE, the scene of fierce fighting, eventually taken by the 82nd with Generals Ridgway and Gavin leading from the front. Pfc. Deglopper won a posthumous Medal of Honor here shooting from the hip to cover the withdrawal of comrades. See the impressive ‘Iron Mike’ US PARACHUTIST MONUMENT and General Gavin’s preserved fox hole.

To STE-MARIE-DU-MONT where Gen. Maxwell Taylor, commanding the 14000 men of the 101st AB DIV. (‘Screaming Eagles’) dropped in darkness on June 6th. Signs around the village describe the action that took place that night.

Cromwell tank, Gold Beach, 7/6/44

On to UTAH BEACH (EXIT 2) where the US 4th INF. DIV. came ashore. [UTAH was also the landing place of PATTON’s 3rd Army and FF Gen. LECLERC’s 2nd Arm. Div. – Aug. 1]. EXIT 2 (there were 4 designated Exits from the beach area), a causeway across flooded swampland, was secured by 1330 on June 6 by 2nd Batt. 506th PIR, 101st AB, with elements of 82nd who had dropped off target. To the BEACH – cleared of enemy by midday June 6, thanks in part to the leadership of Gen. Roosevelt, 57, who died a month later of a heart attack.

Over the beach that day came 23000 men and 1700 vehicles. Visit the MUSEUM with its panoramic view, built into and around German blockhouse W5, knocked out within half an hour on D-Day.

Via the N13 (a causeway in June 1944 – the Germans had flooded the surrounding land) over Bridge No. 4, the last before CARANTAN, past the ‘Cabbage Patch’ 502 PIR [of 101st AB] Memorial commemorating the decisive bayonet charge on June 11th that liberated CARANTAN, held by Gen. Taylor despite ferocious German counter-attacks. The town was the key to the joining of the UTAH and OMAHA beachheads as it lies on the main road and the adjoining river and canal systems.

To ISIGNY (‘Easy Knee’ to the Americans) which – with BAYEUX and CAEN – was a D-Day objective that was not taken on June 6, the main reason being the unexpected presence defending OMAHA of 4 batts. of the crack 352nd First Attack Division. ISIGNY was captured on the night of June 8 by 29th Div. after Gen. Omar Bradley (US 1st Army) had persuaded Adm. King (C-in-C, US Fleet) to support with naval fire. Shortly after, Bradley brought Gens. Eisenhower (Supr. Comm.), Marshall (C. of S., US Army), Arnold (Comm. Gen., USAAF) and King to view the devastating effects of the guns in ISIGNY’s central square. They sat in open cars. ‘An enemy sniper,’said Bradley, ‘could have won immortality as a hero of the Reich.’

Lunch (time permitting) at Le Globe [(0033) 2 31 20 00 33], in ISIGNY.

Sherman DD tank, Doust, 25/6/44

To LA CAMBE on the N13 and the GERMAN CEMETARY where - in Block 47, Grave 3 121F – lies the body of the great tank ace SS Obursturmfuhrer MICHAEL WITTMANN, killed on Aug. 8 1944 when his Tiger tank was overwhelmed by a dozen Shermans. His tally was nearly 140 tanks. His exploit at Villers-Bocage on 13 July ’44, when he single-handedly destroyed a Br. 7th Arm. Div. column of 25 tanks, 14 armoured trucks and 14 Bren Carriers, is legendary. Outside the cemetery entrance is the EXHIBITION and PEACE GARDEN showing how the War affected civilians and soldiers on both sides. A computer keyboard allows visitors to find the memorial or burial place of all soldiers killed in Normandy [‘War graves are the great communicators of peace’ Albert Schweitzer.]

[Alternative venue for lunch, dependent on time, is La Marie fish rest. [(0033) 2 31 21 41 00] down D113 at the port of Grandcamp, where German guns - ranged over UTAH - were silenced on D-Day. Much equipment was landed here.]

German bunker, Pointe du Hoc, Normandy

To the bunkers and craters of POINTE du HOC. This six-gun battery, perched on a steep cliff 100 ft. above a small rocky beach, lies to the west of OMAHA and in June ‘44 could potentially both engage targets at sea – at a range of 25,000 yds. - and hit OMAHA and UTAH. The top priority target was directly assaulted by 225 men of the 2nd Ranger Batt. led by Col. James Rudder just after H-Hour (when leading troops landed) on June 6. Assisted by naval guns, the Rangers stormed the cliff and captured the Battery, only to find that the Battery’s guns had been dismantled. They were found in an orchard close by and destroyed. Despite counter-attacks the Rangers held on until relieved at noon on June 8, suffering 60% casualties.

Along D514 coast road, then left on D517 (past memorial to 6th Engineer Sp. Brig. who, on D-Day, suffered 40% casualties while clearing beach obstacles with just 3 bulldozers) to OMAHA BEACH [US 29th Div. – DOG section (west), US 1st Div. – EASY/FOX section (east)]. Park in Mem. car park opp. Hotel du Casino.

See NATIONAL GUARD MEMORIAL, built on blockhouse WN72 (Widerstandsnest= ‘restistance points’), one of two enfilading the beach, knocked out around noon on D-Day by a DD (Duplex Drive) amphibious Sherman and gunfire from the battleship USS Texas. The 29th Div. was a National Guard Division, similar to our Territorials, but a Div. made up of WW1-type ‘Pals’ battalions. Between 0630 and 0710 on June 6 at DOG Green – just below the MEMORIAL – the first 3 companies to come ashore, A,B &D of 1st Batt., 116th Inf. Reg., were recruited from only three Virginian towns. They were practically destroyed.

US 2nd Inf. Div., Omaha Beach, 7/6/44

Looking left, west, the well-defended Pointe de la Percée (originally mistaken by Col. Rudder for Pointe du Hoc) is visible; and looking east, almost the whole of OMAHA BEACH, stretching for 4 miles in a concave arc, with its 5 exit gullies (or ‘draws’) – all fiercely defended. This is the entrance to the Vierville draw (DOG 1).

On the 100 ft. high cliffs the defenders included a batt. of the 352nd Div. that had just completed an anti-invasion exercise and were deployed to counter a landing. [British Intelligence had told US 1st Army about the 352nd but the information was ignored]. Under the cliffs, dunes and scrub and waterpools lead to the beach road; beyond, a wall marks the beginning of the beach, 6 ft. below. Men cowered here.

H-Hour was planned just after low tide - on a rising tide - to avoid Landing Craft (LCs) being destroyed by mines beyond the low water mark; or by unseen mined beach obstacles. The Germans had assumed the enemy would try to float over obstacles, at high tide; thus their fixed arcs of fire were trained between the high water mark and sea wall. But even so, attackers had to advance across perhaps 100 yards of flat sand, though MG and mortar fire, mines and other hazards. When the ramps dropped the Germans opened fire. Those 100 yards are clearly visible from the cliffs.

FM Erwin ROMMEL, Comm. ARMY GROUP B, responsible - under Commander of the West, von RUNDSTEDT - for coastal defence, had thickened the Atlantic Wall at OMAHA with, on the beach, 3 jumbled lines of log obstacles each 20ft. apart carrying mines and shells to stop LCs reaching the shore; among and inland of them was a 50yd. belt of metal hedgehogs, submerged at high tide. From the beach wall to the bottom of the cliffs were mines and wire, and along the slopes anti-personnel mines.

The cliff at OMAHA beach, Normandy

To BEACH. Turn east, right, towards EASY, past Mem. to the First US Cemetery in Europe, past Op. AQUATINT plaque [failed Br. Commando 1942 raid], to the Comite du Debarquement Signal Monument (with panels to US 1st Inf. Div. – ‘Big Red One’ – and the 116th). This is the junction between DOG and EASY sectors, the bottom of EXIT D3, les Moulins.

Follow signs to Le Ruquet along Beach. Mems. to 2nd Inf. Div. and Engineers. This is EASY Red – EXIT 1 (St. Laurent exit) – and, thanks to combat Engineers, the main exit for OMAHA on D-Day. 40 Germans were killed in the bunker (WN65) defending the exit. Here, the photographer Robert Capa took 106 pictures of the first wave going in; only 12 survived a darkroom technician’s over-excited bungling. Here also Col. George Taylor of the ‘Big Red One’ famously shouted: ‘Only two kinds of people are staying on this beach – the dead and those who are going to die. Now let’s get the f*ck out of here!’

Return to the Comite monument, left uphill to MUSÉE OMAHA, a private museum boasting weapons, vehicles and a Sherman.

Drive along D514 to St. Laurent and the AMERICAN CEMETERY, overlooking OMAHA, with its 9286 burials. Gen. Roosevelt is buried here (Plot D, Row 28, Grave 45) next to his youngest brother, a WW1 aviator killed in 1918. Plus another 38 pairs of brothers including the Nilands, who inspired ‘Saving Private Ryan’ (Pl.F, R.15, Grs.11&12). Also buried here are a father and son, Col. Ollie Reed and Ollie Reed Jr. (Pl.E, R.20, Grs.19&20).

Past the colonnaded Memorial is an ORIENTATION TABLE overlooking OMAHA and pointing out salient features on the landing beaches. To the Beach, past another ORIENTATION TABLE showing the position of OMAHA’s prefabricated Mulberry Harbour (washed away in the storm of 19 June). On the Beach the visitor looks up at the steep cliffs and defences faced by the Americans.

Return to Cemetery for ‘Taps’ (‘last post’) at 1640.

To BAYEUX and (time permitting) the Musee de la Bataille de Normandie (closes 1800) which tells the story of the ‘battle of the hedgerows’, the ’break out’ and the ‘Falaise Gap’. Opp. is the largest British WW2 Cemetary in France (4648 graves) including that of Cpl. Sidney Bates VC, 1st Batt. Norfolk Reg., who, although wounded several times, continued to charge elements of 10th SS Panzer Div. until they withdrew.

Drive to the Hotel de la Marine (02 31 22 34 19) at ARROMANCHES for dinner and night.

DAY 2: BRITISH and CANADIAN SECTOR

D6 to PORT-en-BESSIN, where PLUTO (Pipe Line Under The Ocean) came ashore, piping petrol from the Isle of Wight to BAYEUX and, eventually, to CHERBOURG. Captured on the afternoon of D+1 by No. 47 RM Commando, thus linking the British 50th Div. on GOLD with OMAHA. The Commandos had fought their way along the coast from Le Hamel 10 miles away, with 90 lbs. of equipment on their backs. The emplacements and bunkers on the cliffs are formidable. By 14 June the port was handling over 1000 tons of supplies a day.

Mulberry, Arromanches, June 1944

Via D514 and left to Longues (le Chaos) Battery, whose four 155mm rapid-firing naval guns lost an artillery duel with HMS Ajax and a French cruiser on D-Day. The Battery fired over 115 shells. 120 survivors surrendered to 231st Brigade advancing from ARROMANCHES on D+1.

D514 to ARROMANCHES, famous for the harbour towed from England – MULBERRY – the inspiration of Churchill and Mountbatten. By the end of ’44, 39,000 vehicles and 220,000 soldiers ad come ashore via MULBERRY at ARROMANCHES. The MULBERRY survived the 3-day storm of June 19 which destroyed OMAHA’s. The town was taken late on D-Day by the 1st Batt. Royal Hants. Reg., descending from the heights of St. Come to the east, dislodging elements of 352nd Div. on the way. Visit the important D-DAY LANDINGS MUSEUM, the focal point of the British

Tank-busting Typhoons in Normandy, painted only days after the artist, Frank Wooton, witnessed the scene in August 1944 (IWM)

To ST. COME where, at the cliff edge, the guns menacing GOLD Beach were silenced by HMS Belfast. Remains of MULBERRY visible from the cliff. No. 47 RM Commando landed here, to the right, and swung left to Port-en-Bassin. ST. COME was also taken by the Hampshires on D-Day. Down slope to table d’orientiation with views over MULBERRY by remains of radar station knocked out by air attack before OVERLORD. R.E. MEMORIAL commemorating their crucial role – obstacle clearing, construction of exits, beach organisation; and, inland – bridges, airfields, routes. To the 360o Cinema – 9 synchronised cameras give a unique account of D-Day at ARROMANCHES.

Along D514 to crossroads with D205, and the Beach where The Hampshires, assisted by ‘FUNNIES’ [specialised assault armour developed by Gen. Hobart such as flail tanks – CRABS - and flame-throwing tanks - CROCODILES], landed successfully despite heavy fire from Le Hamel to the east.

200yds further along D514 left -100yds - to Beach. See BLOCKHOUSE, knocked out by Sgt. Palmer MM of the Essex (who landed here with the Sherwoods) with a 25-pounder at 300yds.

Continue along D514 to sign VER-sur-MER; marshy land between road and Beach unpassable without ‘FUNNIES’. Small road leading to sea is Exit from KING sector, GOLD Beach, the scene of CSM Hollis’ (of 6th Batt. Green Howards) heroic action rushing pill boxes, trenches, field guns – earning D-Day’s only VC. VER-sur-MER was Adm. Ramsay’s HQ (signposted).

D514 to BRECHE de GRAYE. On the dunes is an RE Churchill tank with petard (mortar), which assisted the Royal Winnipeg Rifles (128 casualties here on D-Day), that foundered in a flooded culvert, 3 of its crew being killed by mortar fire after escaping. Winston Churchill landed here on June 12, and King George VI on June 16. To COURCEULLES (where De Gaulle landed on June14) like BRECHE, part of JUNO Beach sector, 3rd Canadian Div., and the aiming point of 7th Can. Inf. Brig. Gr., whose ultimate target on D-Day was the high ground around CARPIQUET outside CAEN – S. of the N13 – defended by the notorious ‘Panzer’ Meyer (14/6>), leading the Nazified 12th SS Panzer Div. Many memorials here, inc. plaque to Regina Rifles, many of whom died here; and a Can. DD Sherman recovered from sea.

At BERNIERES - NAN White sector, 8th Can Brig. Gr. assault area – the initial landing, though costly (the assault reg. – Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada – had the largest Canadian D-Day casualties) silenced opposition, thanks to fire support from a flak ship, just off the Beach. But the advance off the Beach to CARPIQUET was stopped by 88mm guns and MG fire. The Div. Comm. in ignorance sent in the follow-up Brig., the 9th , which jammed the Beach area, preventing any advance before 1600; by nightfall 12th SS were deployed. Without the jam the battle for CAEN (a D-Day objective) might have been different.

From the Comité du Débarquement Monument in square walk 250yds. along prom. to BLOCKHOUSE (defending draw) and important Mems.

D514 to ST. AUBIN PLAGE where No. 48 RM Commando charged through waves and over rocks under shellfire (many casualties through ‘friendly fire’) before moving east. After the battle French women with children walked among the dismembered bodies looking for tinned food. Via D514 to LANGRUNE taken after hand-to-hand fighting (and 100 casualties) by No. 48 Comm. late on June 7, attacking the heavily ortified seafront area from the D7 to the south, itself defended by concrete MG positions. Mems.

Through LUC-sur-MER (D514), the boundary between JUNO and SWORD, where on June 6 a vulnerable 2 mile gap between the Beachheads became apparent to 21st Panzer, but whose advance on the evening of 6/6 was stemmed by 6th AB Div.’s glider force; to LION- sur-MER, where No. 41 RM Comm. landed (QUEEN Beach, Green sector) after crossing the Channel in LCs. Stubborn German defence was overcome on the evening of 7/6, and a link-up with No. RM 46 Comm. made, after a set-piece attack with 5th Lincs. and Royal Ulster Rifles. Inspiring sundial Mem. to No. 41 RM Comm. Churchill tank.

The most famous D-Day photo

It was at LION-sur-MER that the most famous D-Day photo was taken – a view of QUEEN Beach, Red sector (taken by Sgt. Jimmy Mapham – later Gen. Montgomery’s personal photographer) around 0830 on 6/6 with No. 84 Field Company RE seen staggering ashore. The scene was incorporated into the OVERLORD EMBROIDERY on display at the D-Day Museum, PORTSMOUTH.

D514 to LA BRECHE d’HERMANVILLE (SWORD, QUEEN Beach, Green/White/Red sectors – W to E) parking by Churchill AVRE (specialised) tank. This is the centre of SWORD and where Lord Lovat and No.s 4 and 6 Comm. of his 1st Special Service Brig. (comprising 3,4,6 Comm., 41,45 RM Comm. plus 2 Troops of Fr. Comm.) came ashore at 0820, piped by Piper Bill Millin, who marched to and fro playing Highland Laddie under gunfire. 4 Comm. reached the D514 and stormed towards OUISTREHAM, visible to the right, where – with the French – they took the concrete gun positions in the demolished Casino, before moving on Pegasus Bridge. On SWORD aerial bombardment had destroyed defending 16in guns, and mines on exit roads were cleared by DD tanks and ‘Funnies’. By 1130 beach exits were open despite 50% casualties to armoured vehicles. But German defence of Periers Ridge sucked in armour needed for the assault on CAEN. 3rd DIV. were successful in breaking the Atlantic Wall; less so in pursuit. Gen. Bradley was ‘keenly disappointed’ in their subsequent performance.

At OUISTREHAM visit Musée le Mur de l’Atlantique in a 52ft. high German flak tower, used to control AA defence of the harbour, and batteries covering entrances to River Orne and Orne Canal.

Via D515 (exit Bénouville) to PEGASUS BRIDGE over the Orne Canal (named after the winged insignia of British airborne forces) which – with the nearby bridge over the Orne River – was captured in a coup-de-main of 10 mins. duration around 0030 on 6/6 by 2nd (Airborne) Batt. Ox & Bucks Light Infantry [attached to Brig. Nigel Poett’s 5th Para. Brig. Group of Gen. ‘Windy’ Gale’s 6th AB Div.], led by Major John Howard. Both US and Br. airborne drops and landings on D-Day were to secure flanks. By 0300, the scheduled reinforcements – 7th L.I. Batt. of the Parachute Reg. under Lt. Col. Pine-Coffin – had established a defence perimeter around the bridge with 200 survivors of their drop, rallied by bugle call. At 1700 Piper Bill Millin led Lord Lovat and No. 6 Comm. over the bridge on their way to the high ground of AMFREVILLE (where their Mem. is located); Lovat was seriously wounded before BREVILLE by a ‘friendly’ H.E. shell.

The present BRIDGE is a 1994 replacement but of the same basic design (the original is lying in a fenced area to the left). The famous Pegasus Café Gondree (the first French house to be liberated) was a first-aid post during 6 June, and the scene of much hospitality by M. Gondrée, who had himself told the Resistance about the location in the eastern pillbox of the key to demolition charges. Bust of Howard, numerous plaques and Memorials.

To the RIVER BRIDGE named ‘Horsa’ after the gliders that landed here at 0020 less than 200yds. away. A Memorial tells the story of its capture.

RAF Typhoon above Normandy, June 1944

D514 to MERVILLE BATTERY (skirting RANVILLE, first village to be liberated, and past Mems. to units who secured vital bridgeheads, LZs, DZs in the early morning of D-Day around RANVILLE). The BATTERY was captured by 9th Para. Batt. (of 3rd Para. Brig. under Brig. James Hill) led by Lt.Col. Terence Otway. Its destruction was deemed vital as it was thought to house four 150mm guns threatening 3rd Br. Div’s landing Beaches. Bombs failed to penetrate its concrete. Its position – 800 by 500yds – was mined, wired and traversed by machine gun nests. The Paras dropped at 0200 two miles from the target which was simultaneously bombed. Only 25% of their force – 150 men – rendezvoused, with only one machine gun and no Engineer support or mine-clearing equipment. Worse, a landing by 3 gliders on the position itself, timed to coincide with the ground attack, missed. They nevertheless attacked around 0500 charging through gaps in the minefield and wire caused by the bombing. They prevailed, with 70 casualties to the Germans’ 108. But the guns in the Battery were found to be only old French 75mm weapons on wheels.

9th Para. Batt’s task was to head for Amfreville, inevitably leaving the Battery vulnerable to counter-attack. It was taken and retaken several times before being secured by No. 3 Comm. on 8/6. The Battery is a MUSEUM; the casemates and ground are always accessible.

Return via D35 and D176 to ARROMANCHES and Hotel.

DAY 3:

Visit Bayeux Tapestry in BAYEUX (opens 0900).

Depart 1130: CHERBOURG (P&O Sea Cat)

Arrive 1315: PORTSMOUTH

Visit D-Day MUSEUM and see OVERLORD EMBROIDERY.

‘People of Western Europe. A landing was made this morning on the coast of France…’ Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, June 5, 1944

Background to OVERLORD

BIBLIOGRAPHY:
[the following are recommended as authoritative and readable – p/b eds. available]

Six Armies in Normandy JOHN KEEGAN [Jonathan Cape, 1982] Excellent on Falaise and the Poles at Chambois.
OVERLORD: D-Day and the Battle for Normandy MAX HASTINGS [M. Joseph, 1983] Strong on weapons and tactics.
War Walks RICHARD HOLMES [BBC Books, 1996] See Ch. 6 on Goodwood.